Archive for November, 2005
Back in Trinidad
24th November 2005 7:46 amHello
It is 2 weeks since we returned to the boat and it has been a very busy time. It took us 2 weeks to clean and pack it up before we left for the UK and it has taken almost as long getting it ready for sailing again. Graham wanted to get another coat of anti-fouling on the hull and we have tried some new gel on the prop and propeller. Hopefully this will keep the barnacles off. The boat is provisioned and we are ready to move on. At present we are on anchor in a bay just outside Chaguramas called Scotland Bay. It is surrounded by hills covered by forest. No signs of habitation to be seen. This morning we were woken by a loud noises coming from the forest we could only think they were monkeys.
I did manage a day off last week. I booked with the local tour guide “Jesse James” yes that is what he calls himself. No he doesn’t use a stagecoach, he has a fleet of taxis which he uses to arrange site seeing trips round Trinidad plus trips to local markets, supermarkets etc. Anyway I decided to have a day trip to the Nariva Swamp on the east coast of Trinidad. Graham refused to go; he said he couldn’t think of anything worse than tramping through a forest swamp with man eating mosquitoes.
So I went along with a group of boat people mainly American, couple of English and a Canadian couple all very friendly.
We were picked up at 5am as it was quite a way about a 2 � hour drive, the roads and traffic doesn’t allow fast driving. We stopped for breakfast by the road side and Jessie bought omelettes filled with a mixture of pulses and spices for us all. Double-ups they called them, everyone tucked in so I thought why not. It wasn’t too bad a little bland.
We eventually arrived at the edge of the swamp where there was two small wooden boats with large outboard motors and the local guide who was to take us up through the swamp and to the edge of the forest to begin our walk. Unfortunately the water level was low and the engine propeller blades kept sticking in the mud so it was decided to leave the boats and finish the last short distance by foot. So we followed the guide through tall grasses over wet swampy ground to the paths on the edge of the forest. The guide told us to watch where we were walking as they were snakes and some were poisonous. Ha! Ha!
We soon came to the edge of the forest and began our walk through to the beaches on the Atlantic side of Trinidad. This was a super walk dry under foot, flat and cool as the tall trees kept us shaded from the hot sun above. We saw numerous birds, which the guide identified for us. Large beautifully coloured butterflies flying between the bushes. The Red Howler monkey which was the main reason for my visit were resting in the high branches of the trees and took a little finding. It was mid afternoon the guide said they fed morning and evening and so were on their siesta now. After a 3 hour walk we reached the sandy beach and the Atlantic Ocean.
After a short rest we were driven back out of forest lunch and back to Chaguramas. Very enjoyable trip.
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All for now hope you are not getting too bored with my ramblings
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Message from Venezuela
7:45 amHello
We have just completed our first passage since returning to the boat after the summer in the UK. We sailed from Trinidad to Venezuela. It took us a nearly a week stopping in the islands of Los Testigos, Margarita and then to the mainland of Venezuela.
Our first leg was to Los Testigos, this we did overnight from Trinidad as it is nearly ninety miles arriving first light the following day. It was a good trip not a lot of wind and we had to motor quite a lot. Los Testigos are a delightful group of islands inhabited by a small number of families that make a living from fishing. They have a school and a church but no shops, no ferry service or airport. So the few visitors they get are boat people. We had to dinghy across to contact the coastguard and they came over the following morning to check the boat, but it was all very friendly. The island itself was like you image a desert island would be , scrub land and sand dunes.�
The second night Graham noticed the fisherman had moved their boats under shelter by the edge of the edge of the bay. Later that night we knew why as a tropical storm raged through the bay. Luckily it was good holding and our anchor held.
The following morning with a fresh breeze and a clear sky we decided to move on to Margarita. We anchored in the bay of Juangriego (John the Greek) this was a lovely seaside village and as it was Sunday the beach was filled with families playing on the sands and sea. Of course as it was Sunday the shops were closed. I’m sure Graham does it on purpose so I can’t buy anything. We were visited by the coastguard again but they didn’t ask to come aboard. A lovely day turned into a thunder storm that night again. The weather is quite unstable at the moment.
The following day we had decided to have a short 5 hour sail to another bay to the west of Margarita stay over night and then do the longer 50mile leg to Venezuela. Unfortunately when we reached the bay the wind was gusting 25-30kts so we decided to continue. This left us with a problem as we had to slow the boat right down so as not to arrive in Puerto la Cruz in the dark. The wind of course remained strong average 25kts. A good run but we didn’t need the speed; it looked as if we would get in
by the latest 2am. Then suddenly 10 miles off the mainland coast the wind completely died and we sat becalmed until sunrise 5-30am to motor into Puerto la Cruz. You just never know.
That’s all for now.
Keep in touch. Look forward to hearing from you all.
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Angel Falls Venzuela
11th November 2005 7:45 amAs promised I said I would let you know about my trek to The Canaima National Park and Angel Falls. A jungle paradise south of the Orinoco River in the state of Bolivar. We began with an early morning taxi ride approx. 4 hours, a real red a dare ride which� brought us to the capital city Ciuded Bolivar. Here we spent the afternoon walking along the banks of the Orinoco and through the town; The first night was at a Posado (lodgings) on the edge of the city. Run by Germans it was really good, all rooms had air-conditioning, en-suite facilities and hot water. Nice gardens and a pool. A little oasis.
Day 2 we had an hours flight in a tiny single propeller aeroplane up to the Indian village of Canaima. It didn’t look too safe at all; we were bundled in 5 per plane and on the runway before we could blink. The pilot chatting away and the hour’s flight passed quickly as we watched the changing landscape below. Across the Orinoco Delta and its many tributaries. Soon we were at our destination Canaima village at the edge of the Canaima National Park. A quick lunch and we were off in long wooden canoes with big 45hp engine going up river to the base of a mountain called Auyan Tepuy known as devil’s mountain. From its peak flows Angel Falls. The boat trip was over 4hours as we were going up river and the water level was low allowing only a small channel deep enough to take the canoe. Loaded with 10 tourist and 3 guides this took a lot of skill by the guides. The guides spent most of their time in the water struggling to keep the canoe moving. We were soaked.
The scenery was breathtaking tall trees, thick jungle. We stopped for a swim at the base of a small waterfall with hundreds of butterflies fluttering about. With the mountains forming a circle around you. The camp when we arrived was basic. A clearing in the forest. Hammocks with mosquito net slung under a thatch roof shelter by the side of the river. The food was cooked on a bonfire, chicken portions skewered on poles. They did have a generator which gave us light whilst we ate our tea and then it was return to candle light. They also had flush toilets but only cold water all lit by candle light. The agent had said it was an adventure and yes it was. The food was good and I slept very well tucked up in my hammock.
Day 3 We were all awake at daybreak getting photos of the sun rising over the mountains, breakfast and then a 45min. trek through jungle paths to the foot of the Angel Falls. Here we were able to swim in a pool that collects below the falls and get more photos. Then a strenuous 20min climb to midway point where you can get the best photos of the summit. There was a lot of mist and cloud about but we sat and waited and eventually were rewarded with a clear photo of the falls in the sun. Then it was back to the canoes and a quicker return trip down the river to the village of Canaima for our third night. The accommodation again was fine, Spartan rooms with no fan. Mosquito shields at the windows. Bathroom with shower but cold water. Food was fine and I slept well and didn’t get bitten by mosquitoes.
Day 4 We were taken by boat across the Canaima Lagoon passing a number of falls. A walk took us to the falls of Sapo where we were able to walk under the waterfall and then continue to Sapito Falls. Magic photos and a fitting end to our trip.
Hope I haven’t bored you too much and if you are ever here in Venezuela, it’s a must do trip.
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