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Wing and a Prayer » 2005» December
Wing and a Prayer

Archive for December, 2005

a year in the caribbean

17th December 2005 7:47 am

Merry Christmas to you All Sitting on the boat in Rodney Bay marina watching the ARC 2005 boats come in, being greeted by the Arc committee with the rum punch and the basket of tropical fruit, family and friends waiting to greet them. It is hard to realise that we arrived in the Caribbean having sailed across with the ARC 2004 from Las Palmas in the Canaries to St. Lucia 12 months ago. I thought I would reflect on our progress to date. Firstly we were surprised to find we could only sail the islands for a period of 6 months. (November to May). Insurance companies require you to leave and go south as we did to Trinidad, Venezuela or far north into the states during the summer hurricane season. However we managed to island hop from St. Lucia to Antigua in the north and then down to Trinidad in the south. We visited 16 islands. Anchored or picking up mooring buoys at numerous bays. We did a total of 1900nm. Sailing here has been a dream. Islands can usually in sight of one another. Generally a day sail between stops. Winds are generally north east or south east 15 - 25 knots and the seas slight. So you reach up and down. Lovely. But then you do have squalls. Mini storms that appear out of nowhere last only a short period but give you 30 - 35kts. of wind and heavy rain. You do see them in the sky and so are not taken unawares. And the sun is still shinning. The anchorages large bays and small coves are beautiful. Pale blue water over the shallow reefs or blue/green in the mangroves. Warm 29 - 31c. Inviting you to take a dip. The sunsets dramatic as the skies turn in various shades of blue and pinks; something I always thought was artistic licence on paintings. Travel inland you have the rivers and the waterfalls. Green tropical jungle with small villages. Towns tend to be dry and dusty. The islands are all individual. The French islands very European, cheap wine and olive oil. The larger Caribbean islands, commercialized for the tourist. Nicer if you keep out of the ports that the cruise ships call into, with the large Duty Free Malls. Though I must admit a little retail therapy is not to be frowned on. The smaller islands are the best, you do have the coloured wooden boats of vendors wanting to sell you the local fruit, fish and jewellery made of beads and shell. But they can be helpful if you need a back line attached to the shore or have to pick up a mooring in windy anchorages. The locals are friendly and always happy. Maybe something to do with ganja, Marijuana is grown on these islands and is part of the local Rasta religion. There are certain things you miss. There is little change in the seasons. I missed spring flowers and the smell of English gardens and the smell of fresh green grass after a rain shower. A day of retail therapy, strolling down the high street, window shopping then stopping for a scone and a coffee. Chatting for long periods on the phone to friends and family. Which is probably why I ramble on in my e-mails? Something’s you get used to UHT milk, fresh milk is not always available and doesn’t keep fresh with the heat. English Bacon and sausage how our taste buds have change. Small things like not being able to have a soak in a bath. We have a shower on board but usually it a swill on the back of the boat after a dip in the salty sea. Gone are the days of a daily morning shower. Some things you don’ t get used to are mosquitoes, but have learned to use repellent at all times. I use it instead of perfume. Two bits of equipment I have valued during this period of cruising are (a) the Water maker. We don’t have to be too strict on the use of water as we do not have to carry water from the shore to fill the boat tanks. I’m able to clean my teeth with the tap running without getting shouted at. We can also wash clothes and dishes in fresh water instead of washing in salt water and rinsing only in fresh. It’s magic, in goes salt sea water and out come drinkable pure water (b) the Satellite phone. My contact with friends and family and importantly downloading the weather. We can send and receive message on the boat through the Sat. phone on to the on board computer. Just like the postman calling, you listen out for the ring. So keep the e-mails coming. I would say it has been a good year and we have enjoyed the Caribbean. We have met some lovely people on our travels and my list of e-mail contacts have grown. We have luckily stayed healthy though we drink a little too much and don’t get enough exercise. Two is company, but there are times when confined to 40ft.of boat space, it isn’t enough and tempers can get a little frayed. Though on the whole we have learnt to adapt to each others odd habits. As we go into 2006 and look forward to another years sailing. I wish you all a Healthy and Happy New Year. Joy

Passage North

7th December 2005 7:46 am

Hi

On our way back from Venezuela, heading north for Christmas in St. Lucia. At
present on anchor inside a horse shoe reef on Union island in the
Grenadines. As I write a squall has just come through and it is blowing
27-30kts.and raining heavy, 10 minutes ago we were basking in glorious sun
shine. That’s Caribbean weather

Left Puerto La Cruz on the 22nd November did a day sail to the Isle of
Coche. Anchoring in the bay beside a long stretch of sandy beach. Busy
during the day with tourist from Margarita, but very quiet at night. Just
yachts on anchor like us.

Then on to Margarita where we got the cheapest fuel ever. (15cents US a
gallon) cheaper than Venezuela and we thought goods were cheap there.
However Graham did manage to get his Leatherman stolen out of the dinghy
when we were ashore.He had forgotten and left it in the dinghy pouch so
maybe not that cheap.

Next trip was an overnight sail to Los Tostitos. We had stopped here on the
way down, but the weather hadn’t been good. Now it was sunny and calm, so
we decided to stay a couple of days and enjoy the blue water. Graham doing
his morning swim round the boat. The locals live by catching lobster and
fishing and we were given fresh fish in return for cans of beer. We must
have stayed too long as we were spotted and visited by the coast guard boat.
They were very friendly but left with a boat flare and 4 cans of beer.

The weather forecast was OK, winds light and in the right direction so we
decided to leave and do another overnight passage to Grenada. A total of 90
miles as the crow flies but 126 miles when you have to follow the wind and
fight the currents. It wasn’t a bad trip and we arrived before sunset the
following day.

Grenada had been very busy rebuilding since our last visit in May when the
island was looking grim following hurricane Ivan the previous November.
Repairs and new roofs on the houses, hotels reopened and shops busy. The
cruise ships have returned and whilst we were there the Queen Mary 2 came
into dock.

After a few days we decided we should move , the weather was a little
unsettled but as we had only had a short hop to the next island Carriacou we
decided to go.

It was a hard beat and wet arriving at Tyrrell Bay we found the windless had
got water logged and shorted out. So this meant we had to throw out the
anchor manually.

A slight problem, usually I do the anchor with the help of the windless with
Graham controlling the boat. We had to swap, me on the back, with the wind
which had now risen and Graham shouting from the front instructions I couldn
‘t hear , it was a little fretful. More so when we found the anchor wasn’t
holding and had to be pulled up by hand and dropped it again. Needless to
say the air was a little heated. I would never have managed life on board
before all the electrical; aids we have now.

So yesterday morning the windless was repaired and we sailed over here to
Union. Another short sail wind on the nose. Sailing 13 miles instead of the
9 it is said to be. o To find as we came to Clifton bay, where we had
planned to anchor , a dark squall heading for us. Now Clifton bay is a very
pretty bay the pilot book says but it is surrounded by reefs well marked if
the visibility allows you to see them. As we entered the bay a local called
Skipper in his red wooden boat came to our assistance and helped us through
the reef and attached us to a buoy. An expensive buoy 50Ec dollars, the
price of a marina berth but worth it at the time. He then offered us fuel,
water, and ice. We settled for ice and he duly returned with the ice 20Ec.
So we are helping the island economy. This morning we awoke to a beautiful
sunny day and blue Caribbean water but maybe its not as settled as we
thought.

Joy


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